WATER FUELED VEHICLES
Burn Water To Power Your Vehicle & Save $$$
Sunday, March 6, 2011
INTERCHARGER INCREASES FUEL MILEAGE USING CRANK VAPORS
"An InterCharger is fastened to a vehicle's PCV valve. When the vehicle runs, the InterCharger breaks down the molecular structure of vapors in the crankcase, and the vapors become electronically charged. According to Extreme Energy Solutions' website, the electro-chemically charged gases are burned more completely, causing fewer harmful emissions and improving fuel efficiency.
"Basically, the InterCharger takes dirty emissions, regenerates them into usable fuel and puts them back into the air fuel stream," Burlum said. "Municipalities can extend the lives of existing vehicles by putting these devices in them, rather than investing in new vehicles."
The device, which was developed by another company about a decade ago, was originally used in logging equipment operated by firms in Washington state, Burlum said.
Burlum said it's reasonable to anticipate a 50 to 70 percent decrease in harmful emissions once an InterCharger is installed. Fuel economy varies from vehicle to vehicle, so fuel mileage improvements are variable, he said. For example, in a past trial run, a school bus owned by the school district of Boone County, W. Va., saw its mileage improve from 6.82 miles per gallon to 8.48 miles per gallon after the installation of an InterCharger." SOURCE: NEW JERSEY HERALD
Labels:
boon county,
emissions,
extreme energy solutions,
fuel,
green,
herald,
intercharger,
new jersey,
w.v.
WATER PUMP FAIL - 4.0 XJ YJ SIMILAR PROCEDURE
OR VIEW THIS VIDEO FOR A GOOD GENERAL IDEA
Water Pump 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Replace Pump
Sunday, September 26, 2010
HOW TO REPLACE THAT LEAKY REAR MAIN SEAL IN YOUR CHEROKEE XJ
Method I did not choose to use -
LIFTING ENGINE OFF ONE MOUNT TO REMOVE OIL PAN
Not that I wasn't up to the task of unmounting one motor mount and pivoting up one side of the engine with a jack - because I just had to do that a week ago when I got my ratchet wedged between the oil filter adapter body and the frame (another story for another day) - but, the method of jacking up the Cherokee and letting the suspension hang down seemed more like the way it should be done.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
LISTED JUST FOR AN EXAMPLE OF HOW UNHELPFUL SOME ARTICLES CAN BE
"1. Remove oil pan"
He is kidding, right? This is the most difficult part of the whole job! And, he says nothing about how this happens? Fairy dust, maybe?
"4. Using something plastic, so you do not scratch anything push the top part out. It will be a semi rigid half circle."
Yes, but, no! Not a plastic paint brush handle! That doggoned seal that has been in there for well over 100,000 miles is NOT going to just ease on out! Trust me, a brass punch is the solution. Or, if one is not obtainable - use a steel punch VERY CAREFULLY!!! and a pair of STRONG needle nose pliers once you get it started out.
"17. Don't be surprised if it doesn't seal the first time. It's kind of a hit or miss thing. Just a poor design IMO."
This may be the most accurate statement he makes if one were to only have his article to rely on to get the job done right the first time!
----------------------------------------------------------------------
THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THIS ARTICLE WILL GET THE JOB DONE
"To start with, depending on how much lift you’ve got, you’ll want to jack up the vehicle by the frame, pull the wheels, and let the front axle hang down to give you clearance to get the oil pan out."
I will add that it does not matter HOW MUCH LIFT your XJ has.
Jack it up and let that front end hang.
Unbolt the shock absorbers.
Unbolt the stabilizer bar to frame brackets.
Unbolt the track bar from the passenger side bracket (why disturb the socket on the driver side?).
Disconnect or at your discretion get the transmission lines out of the way.
You are ready to drop the pan and slide it out back and under the transmission. The oil pump pick-up tube will need to be maneuvered around (some say unbolt the oil pump by tilting the pan and getting your arm in there - I say, WHY?!)
The rest of the article is pretty much enough info to properly get the job done. One other noteworthy thing to do is to clean up the slot edge where the rear main upper seal is slid into. The edges may have built up a hard crusty ridge over the thousands of miles which may make sliding in the new upper half a very difficult job, or, worse yet, damage the new rubber seal you are carefully trying to install. Some emery paper or skillful working with a very small file should do the job.
This is about the filthiest job I have ever performed on a vehicle. Have lots of Goop or D&L hand cleaner and a hand brush handy to get the grime out of your skin.
LIFTING ENGINE OFF ONE MOUNT TO REMOVE OIL PAN
Not that I wasn't up to the task of unmounting one motor mount and pivoting up one side of the engine with a jack - because I just had to do that a week ago when I got my ratchet wedged between the oil filter adapter body and the frame (another story for another day) - but, the method of jacking up the Cherokee and letting the suspension hang down seemed more like the way it should be done.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
LISTED JUST FOR AN EXAMPLE OF HOW UNHELPFUL SOME ARTICLES CAN BE
"1. Remove oil pan"
He is kidding, right? This is the most difficult part of the whole job! And, he says nothing about how this happens? Fairy dust, maybe?
"4. Using something plastic, so you do not scratch anything push the top part out. It will be a semi rigid half circle."
Yes, but, no! Not a plastic paint brush handle! That doggoned seal that has been in there for well over 100,000 miles is NOT going to just ease on out! Trust me, a brass punch is the solution. Or, if one is not obtainable - use a steel punch VERY CAREFULLY!!! and a pair of STRONG needle nose pliers once you get it started out.
"17. Don't be surprised if it doesn't seal the first time. It's kind of a hit or miss thing. Just a poor design IMO."
This may be the most accurate statement he makes if one were to only have his article to rely on to get the job done right the first time!
----------------------------------------------------------------------
THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THIS ARTICLE WILL GET THE JOB DONE
"To start with, depending on how much lift you’ve got, you’ll want to jack up the vehicle by the frame, pull the wheels, and let the front axle hang down to give you clearance to get the oil pan out."
I will add that it does not matter HOW MUCH LIFT your XJ has.
Jack it up and let that front end hang.
Unbolt the shock absorbers.
Unbolt the stabilizer bar to frame brackets.
Unbolt the track bar from the passenger side bracket (why disturb the socket on the driver side?).
Disconnect or at your discretion get the transmission lines out of the way.
You are ready to drop the pan and slide it out back and under the transmission. The oil pump pick-up tube will need to be maneuvered around (some say unbolt the oil pump by tilting the pan and getting your arm in there - I say, WHY?!)
The rest of the article is pretty much enough info to properly get the job done. One other noteworthy thing to do is to clean up the slot edge where the rear main upper seal is slid into. The edges may have built up a hard crusty ridge over the thousands of miles which may make sliding in the new upper half a very difficult job, or, worse yet, damage the new rubber seal you are carefully trying to install. Some emery paper or skillful working with a very small file should do the job.
This is about the filthiest job I have ever performed on a vehicle. Have lots of Goop or D&L hand cleaner and a hand brush handy to get the grime out of your skin.
Labels:
4.0,
CHEROKEE,
D L,
Goop,
HOW TO,
Jeep,
Oil Pan,
Oil Pump,
REAR MAIN SEAL,
Shock absorber,
stabilizer bar,
track bar,
Transmission line,
XJ
My Review of Coolant Bottle Cap
Originally submitted at Advance Auto Parts
Manufactured to OE specifications and quality
DON'T BUY THIS CAP - JUNK
By notswift from Lake Milton, OH on 9/26/2010
1out of 5
Cons: Poor Fit
Car & Truck: Auto Enthusiast, Mechanic
These Stant caps DO NOT FIT PROPERLY and WILL FAIL! I am surprised that Advance Auto Parts is still selling this defective product. Do not buy it or else you may be buying an engine when this Stant cap blows off resulting in an instant mass loss of engine coolant.
Go to a junkyard - $5
Or go to a Jeep dealer and buy new for $25
(legalese)
Saturday, March 15, 2008
This system is a supplement to your vehicle's normal fuel supply - either diesel or gasoline. By separating water into hydrogen and oxygen and then injecting these two gases directly into the intake manifold the fuel mixture is enhanced giving the engine greater power and better mileage - many of the testimonials report a doubling of their vehicle's normal miles per gallon. Some even report nearly tripling their mileage.
Complete instructions are included for this very simple setup. Some mechanical skills are needed, but, nothing that a typically mechanically inclined person can't handle. In the event that the installation looks like more than what is within the purchaser's scope, the savings anticipated with the increased fuel economy justifies hiring a mechanic to do the install.
Complete instructions are included for this very simple setup. Some mechanical skills are needed, but, nothing that a typically mechanically inclined person can't handle. In the event that the installation looks like more than what is within the purchaser's scope, the savings anticipated with the increased fuel economy justifies hiring a mechanic to do the install.
Inventor Stan Meyer developed a simple system which separates water into it's basic elements - oxygen and hydrogen - which can be used to enhance the combustion process of both gasoline and diesel engines. Mysteriously, Stan Meyer died in the parking lot of an Ohio restaurant before his system could be put into full commercial production.
Sounds like the beginnings of a great 'whodunit' conspiracy story. The details of Stan Meyer's demise are somewhat varied. More to my interest is whether or not his invention actually works (although, I would be aghast to learn that he was actually snuffed by 'big corporation').
Researching the matter, I have found more testimonials for this product than I have against it. There are some skeptics, but, what product doesn't have it's share of those. The money back guarantee speaks volumes. With the price of gas going bonkers, this product is worth it's small price.
To learn more about Stan Meyer's system Click Here!
Sounds like the beginnings of a great 'whodunit' conspiracy story. The details of Stan Meyer's demise are somewhat varied. More to my interest is whether or not his invention actually works (although, I would be aghast to learn that he was actually snuffed by 'big corporation').
Researching the matter, I have found more testimonials for this product than I have against it. There are some skeptics, but, what product doesn't have it's share of those. The money back guarantee speaks volumes. With the price of gas going bonkers, this product is worth it's small price.
To learn more about Stan Meyer's system Click Here!
Labels:
conversion,
fuel,
gas,
Stan Meyer,
water,
water4gas
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